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An etrog is a specific cultivar of Citrus medica, also known as citron. These distinctive almond-shaped fruits have historically been used by the Jewish people during the important festival of Sukkot, also known as the Feast of Tabernacles. In addition to being used for religious purposes, an etrog can also be used to produce candied citrus peels. These fruits are often available in Jewish communities in the weeks leading up to Sukkot, and some greengrocers stock them in other regions for culinary purposes.
In Jewish tradition, the etrog is one of four species traditionally shaken during Sukkot ceremonies. The other three species are lulav, hadass, and aravah, known in English as the foliage of a date palm, a myrtle branch, and a willow branch. In keeping with tradition, all four species are carefully selected to ensure they are perfectly formed and beautiful. When selecting the etrog, people look for a symmetrical specimen with its python, the remains of the citrus blossom, intact.
An etrog to be worn on Sukkot should be as even and straight as possible and should ideally start to yellow. Some people look for so-called “belt” etrogs, which have a narrow region around the middle that gives the fruit an hourglass shape. The fruit is carefully handled and inspected for scratches and other blemishes that would make it imperfect and therefore unsuitable for religious ceremonies.
Etrogs are somewhat oblong in shape, with sharp edges and extremely knobby flesh. They have a very thick skin and a stone that surrounds a small bitter and dry fruit. The taste and smell of the etrog is probably more similar to that of a lemon, although the actual edible fruit is much smaller. Depending on the region, the fruit may be candied along with the peel.
If you are not using an etrog for religious purposes, you can afford to be less meticulous in choosing your fruit. Look for fruit with no soft spots, discoloration, or signs of mold. The color of the fruit can range from green to yellow, so don’t worry if you can’t find a bright lemon-yellow etrog. You can keep the fruit refrigerated until use; most people confuse it, following the instructions for making other citrus fruits.
If you live in a hot climate, you can grow etrog outdoors; the fruit typically grows in USDA zones 10 and 11. Keep the fruit tree in a warm location that is well insulated from winds and do not over-water. It takes about three years for an etrog seedling to mature enough to produce fruit, and about seven years for an etrog grown from seed to produce fruit. You can also grow cider in a greenhouse or indoors, where the scent of lemon can be very refreshing, but watch out for the thorns!