Silk cocoons. Madder can be used to dye silk.

Madder is a perennial plant native to the Old World. Historically, this plant has been used as a source of animal feed, but was commercially important for its red root, which was used to make a dye known as madder or rose madder. Color ranged from medium to deep red with hints of pink. It was one of the first dyes to be synthetically duplicated, in the form of alizarin crimson, in the 1860s.

Rose madder can be used to dye leather.

People have used madder for centuries. Archaeological evidence shows that the Egyptians used it as a textile dye and that it may also have been used in cosmetics. The color also appeared in Ancient Greece and Rome. It was one of the most widespread red dyes in use in Europe, leading people to compare people’s lips to crazier ones in verse, as the color was so well known.

Madder can be used on cotton, leather, wool and silk. However, a mordant must be used to set the dye, or it will run. Mordants bind to dyes to make them insoluble, ensuring that they adhere to the material being dyed, but they do not prevent fading and eventual discoloration. In the case of this dye, alum was a commonly used mordant.

As well as being used as a textile dye, madder was also used in some traditional herbs in the belief that it could be used to treat intestinal problems and jaundice. The stem, flowers, roots, and seeds were used in tinctures and medical preparations that could be swallowed or applied topically, depending on the formula. Many people thought that the plant was good for the skin, especially in women, perhaps because it left a slight red blush after application.

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Like other natural dyes, Madder can be extremely inconsistent. Depending on how the roots are grown and handled, the color can vary, and even when a mordant is used, it is often not firm. As a result, most people prefer to use the synthetic form nowadays when they want to create the characteristic pink shade of blonde. However, the natural pigment is still available at specialty dye shops, for people who like to experiment with traditional dyes, and enterprising artisans can also make their own dye, assuming they can find wild or cultivated plants. , which can be a bit of a challenge. .

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